Umayyad Mosque, Damascus, Syria

Umayyad Mosque was originally built to worship gods even before the Roman time and it was the Temple of Jupiter during the Roman period. After christinity was accepted by the romans in the 4th Century AD, the church was built to in the name of St. John the Baptist whose head was believed to be found on this site.

When the Muslim arrived in Damascus in the 7th Century AD, the chritian and the muslim worshipped together here after building a wall for the muslim prayer. It's quite hard to imagine in the current climate, but they coexisted alongside each other then. When the Umayyad dynasty became powerful in islamic world, they wanted to show off with building this magnificant mosque. They bought the place from the christian promising not to destroy any other churches in the city and built another church in compensation.

I haven't had the faintest idea about this bit of history but it's something we all have to remember. All the religious conflicts happening thesedays, the leaders of the religions never learned anything from the history.

I can't help reflecting this on my own country, Korea, going through difficult times. Current government has suppressed the previous government so much, it alledegly killed the former president, My. Roh who devoted his life for democracy to settle in Korea. It was 1500 years ago when the muslim conqueror tolerated different religion of the conquered. How should I apply this to Darwins 'Natural selection'? It looks like the time goes absolutly backwards to barbarian times.

Is this Islamic land? This Roman ruin proudly stood in front of the Umayyad mosque. It must''ve been watching over the mosque over 2000 years. Temple of Jupiter during Roman time, Christian church in the 4th Century and Islamic mosque in from the 7th Century....
I imagine the spirits of people who built this during roman time would've been smiling watching over the people who live in harmony.

Petra 2, The Monastery

Petra is believed to be the place where Moses struck a rock and got water from it, and where his brother Aaron was buried. The name of Wadi Musa which is nearby village bears his name Musa(Moses in Arabic) as well.

Would it have been human's touch or done by nature, it made a beutiful scenary, but a herd of goats caught my eyes.

Let alone all the beutiful sights in front of you, this rose-coloured rock was amazing enough to get my attention for a while.

Despite the mosquito bites that covered all over her face, her face was glowing over this unusual and beutiful scenary.

Roman amphitheatre. It might look pretty similar to all other roman ruins found all over the Europe and around the Mediterranean, but soon it reveals it's unique feature when looking at the seats. The seats are not constructed but carved into.

The kids we met in the siq earlier were resting there, so I went to sit with them. They were so curious about us so we got a group photo. It's so nice to be able to get to meet the locals when travelling.

The Monastery can be reached by climbing 800 steps, so donkey riders kept trying to get us on one from the Treasury all the way up to the Monastery.

But the girls behaved beutifully thanks to the promise I made earlier, 'only the ones who behave on the way up will get a donkey ride back!.

There was a cafe on the way where we sat to appreciate the view of the Urn Tomb in the front. It was also interesting looking at tourists from all over the world and their characteristics.

The sculpture on the cliff face is the Urn Tomb which was used as a church. The christianity here started in the 4th century AD as Roman empire accepted it then. Before christianity, the Nabateans belived in many gods and goddesses, so they had many temples in Petra to worship them.

El-Deir(the Monastery) is the biggest monument in Petra which was to worship the king Obodas 1 from the 1st century BC.Jebel Haroun where Aaron was buried is supposed to be out there somewhere. I felt as if I went back to the biblical times to be amongst them.

Ruby was finally giving in after all the climb she did, and she was clinging to Pete who was smiling all the way so impressed by the scenary.

While Ruby felt asleep at the cafe up in the Monastery, Pete and Ellie went further back with two other Korean backpackers we met earlier.

It looks so cool from behind where I didn't go as far.

Energizer Pete and Ellie.
Despite the long climb especially for the little legs she had, Ellie didn't hassle us to carry her at all. Absolutely amazing!

What a fabulous view!

Petra 1, Treasury

Petra! We are here at last. Got tickets for a day(21 Dinar, 26Dinar for 2 days, 31 Dinar for 3 days) and followed others in one direction.

Though I was warned that Petra can be quite cold at times, I wasn't well geared for it after seeing lovely sunshine in the morning. It was very cold especially in the shade.

A tree made a good picture on the sky that it looked lonely as well as confident.

Soon the siq started and it was a kilometer long and 80 meter high. In inself, it felt like a secret path to a mysterious world.
I guess the geological location made Petra possible to flourish for a long time. Imagine having to attack the city through this narrow and steep gorge.

This was where the water was supplied through, all the way to the city.
It's admirable work considering the time frame which was in the 6th century BC. We often think that the western civilization of ancient Greco-Roman was the basis of the western-led modern culture. But there were people who were really advanced like here, and these people were nomadic middle eastern Nabateans.

I was told to come here early in the morning or late afternoon, and it was true that it would've been much nicer if there are not many people on the siq.

Imagine being here 2000 years ago looking at people like him securing the siq.

Wow, this is the treasury(Al-Kazneh) where the last scene of the 'Indiana Jones' movie was filmed.
I forgot all about the movie when we got there, but the sheer size and the impressive architecture of the Treasury was absolutely mind-blowing. It was wrongly named from the false belief that the egpytian pharaohs hid treasures here.

The girls looked so small right next to the enormous column, getting excited about the guy with traditional clothes.

This guy here wore real gun and knife, but it was free to take photo with him, unlike the guy with traditional clothes. There were so many people waiting to take photo with him behind us, so I couldn't talk to him much, which was a shame.
I reckon he might've been an army officer or a policeman.

Tired looking donkey, but he sat on the ground at least.

It was a long way for the kids to walk, to be honest, but it was going to be better if they walked on the way in rather than out. So I promised them the donkey ride on condition of good behaviour.

The sky can look quite nice with cliff of the rocks. It's nice to be able to look up sometimes.

Ferry crossing Egypt-Jordan

We decided to take ferry across from Nuweiba, Egypt to Aqaba, Jordan because we couldn't risk getting an Israel stamp if we went overland from Taba, Egypt to Aqaba, Jordan via Eilat, Israel.
It's a lot more expensive and it takes a lot longer this way, but we had no choice.
The ferry ticket costs 80US$ and it dosn't have a fixed timetable, so it's likely to arrive in Aqaba in the evening and that's a bit annoying when you have to get to Petra on the same day.

Ticket Office. It's said that they only take US dollors and you can buy it on the morning of travel.

Goats everywhere. They eat ablsolutely anything but they have some special guts to digest it all.

We look more energized after 5 days of resting on the beach of Nuweiba.

We were locked up for 3 hours in this waiting room, and the boys found an empty bottle to play football.

The girls try it themselves.

Got held up in the kiosk while buying a bottle of water by these young men wanting to take photos of me and with me and so on..

I want to take photos of these guys with my camera as well, so i asked a guy to do that.
But he couldn't find the button on my dslr.
right there, yes that's right, press it, yes! lol


He was fine up to this point, but as there were too many men coming towards me to take photos, he, the shopkeeper kicked us out of there to protect his business.

Had been waiting for some time, and it was prayer time.

We hated waiting whatsoever, but the locals seemed to enjoy this. I guess it will happen in God's will, inshallah!

Well, you gotta stay positive．

Adam on the ferry.
His father was a palestinian so they were trying to get into Gaza, but the border had been closed for months and months.
Adam's family were living in Australia but came to visit the family here since the terrible conflicts happen in Gaza a while ago.
His mum, Julie who was an Austrailan-born Lebanese and a Muslim, was quite interesting person to talk to.


Inside the ferry. It's very comfortable and clean.

Accommodation in Nuweiba, Egypt. Softbeachcamp, Tarabin.

Nuweiba is on the red sea coast but many people only go there to catch the ferry to Aqaba, Jordan.
But I read the Lonely Planet describing a place 'the best camp in Sinai', so we decided to check it out.
Found the website http://www.softbeachcamp.com/ which looked attractive enough, especially because of many Egyptian tourists there.

the camp. small touch of cute painting on the door makes the whole atmosphere a lot more lively.

Hut number 12 where we first stayed. It looks as if we were in the middle of a remote village of Africa somewhere, but this facility was for 'tourists' which makes the place more unique.
It was so inconvenient though, because of dirt ground inside. Only a mat on the dirt and some matresses on top, that was it. it's not too bad for the first few hours but it soon became uncontrollable with full of dirt everywhere.

The next hut looked better with tiles on the floor so I asked to move, but it was already booked so he would look for something similar.

So we managed to move to the best hut in the camp. No. 4.
Spacious room with clean matresses and new blanket, moreover the view from the hut was wonderful.

It might look romantic but the reality was very different.
Taking the kids to the showers/toilets away from the hut was not easy sometimes,
and Khamsin-dusty wind blown from Sahara Desert, was so intense, we found our bags absolutely covered with sand the morning after. I had to use waterproof cover on my camera bag, otherwise it was going to cause some grief.

If I was asked whether I would go back there one day, I would certainly say 'yes!'.
The accommodation itself wasn't the most comfortable place in the world, but there was something more to it than just that. I think that it felt like heaven like written on the door because of tranquility we could have there. It felt like miles away from anywhere but at the same time, I felt so close to the mother nature.

The cost?

Triple hut was 100 LE including breakfast.

Full photos : http://rubykor.com/130047628357

Egyptian Food. Nuweiba

This posting consists of the foods we had at the softbeach camp restaurant, Tarabin, Nuweiba, Egypt.

Continental Breakfast.

Same old same old, but very different in Egypt.

It is a good idea to ease into the local food this way when you are not familiar with them.

This continental breakfast has a fig jam which is very Egyptian.

Egyptian Breakfast.

We tried the Egyptian breakfast as we came all the way to Egypt.

Familiar looking boiled egg and fresh veggies and even falafel(fried bean cake) looked safe, but this bean looking thing was quite mysterious.Yummy! 

It's similiar to baked beans but a lot more tasty.It's called Fuul(pronounced as 'fool') and it is nice to dip in with bread or wrap up with veggies and even soft cheese.

Omelette.It is safe for those who don't feel brave enough to try new food.

Chocolate Pancake.

Would it be enough for breakfast?but, yes it is!I guess it's similar to Europeans having chocolate spread on toast for breakfast.

Shakshouka.

It was called 'Spanish Breakfast' at this restaurant.

I remember this dish from High Atlas in Morocco and it was called 'Berber's Omelette' there.

It's not surprising to be called 'Spanish Breakfast'

 because Berbers invaded southern spain and stayed there for 500 years.

Shakshouka is a kind of omelette- 

I guess you can call it that- but tomato, onion, garlic, pepper are saute'd before adding eggs. 

It tastes like tomato sauce but slightly spicy at the same time. so I loved it!

Koshary.

Egypt's signature food.

It's amazing mixture of rice and pasta, and tomato sauce was so hot, even I struggled with it.

Sahlab.

Egyptian pudding.Sweet and nice to have a spoonful.

Egyptian students said that they always drink cold sahlab at home, 

not warm pudding like this.

Bread.

Always appear on the table in Egypt and really fresh too.

We didn't miss bakeries in Paris too much on this trip.

Hassle starting in Cairo 3, Camel ride scam

This time around, I was determined to have a feel about the pyramids rather than 'yes, they are huge!' only.
Well, wow!, it's really emornous, look at the sizxe of the rocks!


Lots of local tourists there as well.

Among those, there was a group of boys coming to me to take photos with me.
Taking a while to take photos with all their cameras one by one, I felt like some sort of celebrity, lol.
I wasn't the only foreigner nor far eastern woman there, but I guess the top i was wearing was slightly revealing for them.
It didn't worry me or Pete who was proudly taking photo of me with the boys himself.

You can see a little bit on the bottom left corner which would've covered the pyramids completely with.
It must've been really impressive to see shiney huge things those days.

It was allowed to climb so most people were up there having a rest and picnic.
Felt quite priviledged to be there doing all that things but couldn't stop thinking ' Is it really okay to let people on The only surviving seven wonders of the world?'.

Ruby, who was not very impressed by the sight of the pyramids, started to hassle me impatiently.
'Mummy, I want a camel ride'.
Well, I fell off the camel right here 10 years ago, so I really want to avoid camel ride if I can help it.
But I must be a mother after all, I was being led by Ruby to the camel owners.

There were many camel/horse touts around so I agreed to pay 20LE for two camel rides to take a family photos woth 3 pyramids.

After all the negotiation with the boy, the camel owner suddenly appeared and started re-negotiation.
It's 20le to go just there, but it's 100le if we go right around the pyramids and sphinx as well.

Annoyed so i was getting off the camel but he put the price down to 80 so I insisted on 50.
When I saw his hat with Korean writing on, I mentioned that I was a Korean, he suddely dropped the price down to 50 saying he loves Koreans.
He told me to give the boys baksisi(tip) afterwards so I agreed thinking 5le should be enough.
I paid him with a 100 pounds note and he gave me change with a 50 piaster note not 50 pounds(100 piasters=1 pound).
It was my first day and i weren't to know the differences, so I happily enjoyed the views around the pyramids on the camel back.

Got a family photo at least.

Let's enjoy the view putting everything else behind.
Ellie must've been quite nervous on the camel hoding onto Pete so tight,
but the girls never said a word about being scared but enjoyed thoroughly.

I still had this funny feeling about the camel rid but the girls and Pete seemed happy enough.
We were resting when I found that I got ripped off!
I couldn't do nothing about it but Pete wasn't sure what we could do about it.
But the fact that he mentioned Korean to give us supposedly special price pissed me right off!

So I went back in search of the camel owner and the boy called Samir showing the photos of them on my camera. but they looked a bit worried and said that they are not there any more.
Saw a tourist police passing by so asked him about these people. He told me to follow him and one of the camel owners quickly told me that he was going to pay me back with 50 LE instead.
I insisted on following the police and he tried to persuade me saying that the camel owner won't be able to work here any more. well, too bad!
A dozen of camel owners were following us and the policeman let one of them negotiate with me.
He we on the phone with the camel owner who ripped me off and asked how much I want back.
so I said 80 and he gave me that money.
The policeman said 'it's okay now, so are you happy with the police?'.
I guess they are on the same side after all.

Lost will to enjoy this magnificant view not knowing when we will be back.

I thought it was it for the day but the taxi driver when we were waiting for the bus to catch said,
'why are you not taking a taxi instead, you've got young children!'
It sounded accusing of being irresponsivle parents but there were a few Egyptian families with young kids waiting for a bus.
Why does it make us bad parents when the other Egpytians do it on a daily basis?


Bus wasn't coming for a while so Pete hailed another taxi.
He asked 20 to the El Giza station so I stepped in saying 10!
He agreed and we got on the taxi but he asked 20 when we arrived.

He was saying 'Do you speak Arabic? I said 20, not 10!'
I couldn't be asked any more so told hime to take us to the police station.
He let us off with 10LE.

2. Camel Tout at the El Giza Metro Station

we left the papyrus scam guy behind and headed to the Turgoman bus terminal to buy the tickets to Nuweiba.
I didn't have to worry about how to buy the right tickets at the ticket office, because the staff spoke wonderful English.
Felt a bit empty after buying the ticket as I prepared myself for the worst.
Then started to look for a way to Giza to see the Pyramids and found on the Lonely Planet that there is a metro nearby.
Took a taxi to a metro station and caught a train to the El Giza Station.

After about 40 minutes, we were approaching 'El Giza' station, so we asked around on the train saying 'Pyramids?' 'okay?' 'nodding..?' and it seemed to be the correct station so we got off there,
As soon as we were out of the station, we were sorrounded by taxi drivers who wanted to take us to the pyramids.
They said it's 10 kms away hence 10 LE.
It sounds resonable now but I expected the pyramids to be walking distance from the metro station so I ignored them all.
We just followed the locals to get out and an Egyptian guy approached us saying that the taxi is too expensive but the bus they are taking is cheap and easy.
We felt really thankful so followed him and his son who he said that it's his first time in here as they live in Alexandria.




But it didn't seem quite right the way the son looked. He looked more like one of the boys working in tourist attracations.
Well, what harm can they do? so we kept following them.
He was thoughtful enough to tell us to buy some food and drink in a shop because it would be very expensive in Pyramids.
Thanked him again and bought some bread but he had to wait for a long time as there were many people at the shop and the kids couldn't make up minds.
Though he told us beforehand that we can catch 357 bus and the bus stop was right across the road but they kept waiting for us and that made me think a bit.
But he helped us a lot crossing the busy road which can be quite tricky if you are not used to it, so we kept following him.


got talking again waiting for the bus to arrive and he asked me if we want to ride camels in pyramids.
He said that there are two entrances to the pyramids one of which is only to take photos so we can't have a good look around from there, and the other one is to the stables to take camels, horses or donkey, etc.

Bingo!
He weren't to know that I came here 10 years ago and what he was telling us was all lies!
It was time to lose him as well so I said that the kids were getting tired so we had to take taxi instead.
He jumped saying that taxi would cost 30 LE but bus is so cheap and easy.
Well, I insisted so he offered to get a taxi for us, but I hailed a taxi and quickly negotiated to 10 LE.
Whether or not he was helpful in the end, we still thanked him and went to the pyramids.

As we approached the Pyramids, there were so many touts full of street and some were trying to stop our taxi.
Because I could see some animals there, I though this must be the stables so shouted 'Ticket office' to the driver.
He tried to keep going but some touts were nearly jumping on the taxi to stop us, so I shouted 'I'll give you more money, just take us to the ticket office!'.

So we managed to get to the ticket office where I could see only tourists from the tour buses and no touts around.
I happily paid 15 LE, and got off the taxi.

If we just followed the taxi drivers from the metro station for 10 LE, I think we were very much likely to end up at the stables to be taking camels or horses for a rip-off.

so were we not ripped off in the end?

Well, yes..

I guess that travelling with young kids and lovely looking Pete doesn't help much...

Next time, it will be about real rip-off on the camel ride at the Giza Pyramids.

Hassle starting in Cairo 1 Papyrus scam

The first day in Cairo, Egypt started and finished with rip-offs.
You can't aviod those things completely during travel, but it's sad to have only bad imression of the city because of that.
The very moment we set a foot in Cario, the struggle started.


1.
Scam by a passer-by.

When we are trying to find a way to Tahrir in Cairo, somebody who dressed smart approached us and start talking.
He introduced himself as an academic and studied in the UK and attend conference regulary in the UK.
Felt at ease for a second so I asked him about the bus terminal for Nuweiba and to write the name in Arabic.
I was going to catch a taxi with it so that the driver knows where to take us, but he said it's going to open in an hour.
Sounded a bit strange
but he led Pete to a conveniently located, right around the corner, shop to give us his business card.
I didn't follow him in making excuses to take photo of the street, but he wasn't happy that I didn't accept his hospitality.

I waited outside hoping Pete and the girls would escape from the shop,
but by the time I went to get them, Pete was writing Ruby's name on a piece of paper and he(the guy) was going to write Ruby's name in Arabic on a papyrus. Though he was saying that it was a gift for Ruby, he did hesitate a bit 'cause I insisted that we couldn't take it because of luggage.

He was so unhappy that we were not going to accept the gift and he even said that it was his sister's wedding tomorrow.
we apolosized and left the place in haste.

It makes you think why he would see and act according to our response rather than just give the gift for Ruby if he so wanted it. And his supposedly sister who was going to be married tomorrow was working so hard at the shop.

There are so many scams happening in Caro especially perfumes and papyrus, so I wasn't prepared to be pushed around by those people. It's us who decide where and when to buy, not anybody else.

Like winning a lottery even before started

First ever family backpacking since the girls.
Couldn't stop smiling even packing the bags before leaving.
All the bags for four of us to last a whole month are on this photo.
They weighed 25kg all together, lol.

When we arrived at the London Heathrow airport by the airbus,
the girls insist on carring the bags themselves as well.


At this very moment, something very significant happens.

I booked this flight online during January sale, London-Cairo return, for 1,000 pounds for 4 of us.
One could check-in online 24 hrs before the flight so I did it 2-3 hours after it became available.
But it was pretty full already so there was only one block of 4 seats to sit together so I got them quick.
I thought that there must be a lot of people using the online checkin service these days.

But as we approached the baggage drop desk at the airport, the staff politely assured us that we have seats confirmed to fly today, but asked if we could fly tomorrow instead as it was badly overbooked today.
the compensation included 600euros in cash per person and the overnight stay at a nearby hotel, hotel transfer and three meals at the hotel...

seemed very attempting and me and Pete exchanged really strong feeling about this and said ' YES, WE VOLUNTEER!'



Well, it was a voluteer scheme after all,
so we had to wait until 45 minutes before the flight time to see if the flight is going to be filled up or not.
So we got some free voucher for drinks waiting to hear the verdict,
so it wasn't too bad dringking juices and beers while waiting.


Yes!, we were chosen in the end.
we got bus tickets to the hotel which cost 4 pounds per person one way, and arrived at this expensive hotel.
we used to stay at the hotel like this when the girls were young but this trip is nothing like this,
so felt like fish out of water here.
The pilots and crews from all airlines were arriving, so our humble sandals and backpacks looked quite sad...



Aha! they allocated two rooms for us though I said that it's not necessary as they are still too you to have their own room.
But there was something called 'interconnecting room' which I can open a door to thier room and vice versa directly.

The girls were so excited to have their own space hence kicked us out and slept so well....
Read the price for a room a night on the door, and it says... 209 pounds a night!!!!
Well, the airline would never pay the full amount but if we came here to stay individually....

So we thought...'Never get used to this, girls! we are never going to have this on this trip, okay...?'


Well, expensive hotel doesn't always mean that the food is be nice!
But, wow! we were so impressed by the quality of food there, including proper rice and Miso soup for Korean air staff.

Ellie was enjoying her favourite food, baked beans, eggs, etc. for the last time for a month.


Spent a following morning before the flight in Hounslow town center for the girls to enjoy riding,
but the main reason being there was to deposit the compensation we got which was over 2000 pounds in total.

I calculated that we spent 3000 english pounds for a month, so in the end, we only spent a thousand pounds for a month for 4 people!

Check-in again the following day as usual. the Terminal 5 was so problematic when opening but look pretty cool inside.
But it was really hard finding a way to the terminal 5 from our place that the airport bus doesn't take you to the terminal 5 and the bus driver only intructs you to get off at the Hatton Cross station to trasfer to the terminal 5 but not telling us which bus nor whether it's free(It is free between Hatton Cross and terminal 5).

Finding Nemo in Dahab, Egypt

I couldn't recognise much of Dahab from 10 years ago because it was so developed.

When I came here 10 years ago, it was popular with some western backpackers, and that was about it.
This small town of sleepy bedouin village became well known because of the reefs.

Looking at different kinds of fish and corals, it feels like I'm part of it for the moment.

I felt terrible finding about all the destruction of the reefs for the first few days in Dahab

But after a few more days, i could see why still so many people come and visit Dahab.

If I keep reminding myself of those days when there were full of reefs and fish in shallow water, say about knee depth,
so that it was so awkward to stand on or sit on anything or swim on tummy or float on the back...,
I guess today's Dahab is so sad...


But I guess it's still amazing to be able to see all this beutiful underwater world from the shore.
You can just have swimming suit and a snorkel, and here you go, you can enjoy all this without having to get on the boat to get to the reefs.


We are blessed to have all this right in front of our eyes.

Ruby got so excited to see the fish from the film 'Finding Nemo'.

Tried to take good photos of the Nemo for Ruby's scrap book to take to school.

So elegant looking lion fish was swimming away, so i got this to show the kids that this fish can be poisonous.

Thinking about the kids, I start to wonder what this will look like in 10 years time after further destruction of the reefs.


Corals are really sensitive that they can be easily destroyed by people touching it as well as all the rubbish and sewers coming out of ever fast growing restaurants, hotels and shops.


So thankful that I am so privileged to get to see this not just once but twice already, but at the same time I feel somehow responsible for the destruction a person like me brings to this place.


Looking at the underwater world,

this bedouin guy makes harmony with nature,

But a person like my husband who loves nature and knows how to look after it,
or even innocent Ruby seems like an intruder who only comes here to enjoy.


But even though we are only passers-by,
I so would like my children to come here to enjoy the same things when they are older,
and for their children as well...


Got talking with bedouins about this issue.
I could feel that they are truly sad about
nothing is being done by Egyptian government to prevent futher destruction of the reefs.

I also talked to the Egyptians from cairo and other places than Sinai
who are the majority of the people who do business in Dahab.

They also wanted to protect their livelyhood to some extent but the degree of it was incomparable to that of the bedouins.
I guess Dahab is a bedouin land after all that
other Egyptians can leave for somewhere else for money but the beduins can't...

I was told that plastic bags in Sinai are prohibited but everybody ignores it.

The Egyptian government doesn't seem to do enough to preserve one of the world's most beutiful water.

Some people might ask me why I care about some other countrie's problem and her goverment.

I simply want to enjoy again and again in this blessed part of the world.